The case for Florence; the case against Florence

Duome, Florence, September, 2001

This is the first in a series of posts discussing the pros and cons of visiting some of the most famous sites and cities in the world. I'll also recommend alternate places to visit if you decide to bypass the tourist hotspots.

Florence 
Florence is a museum. A wonderfully preserved museum. But like the Louvre or The Met, it is insanely crowded. And a lot of people leave Florence disappointed. Maybe that's because they feel that everything interesting about Florence happened in the past. Or maybe they get tired of the constant pull to visit another museum and the corresponding guilt if they miss something.

Well, I can't help you with the crowd thing. There's no getting around it. Florence is crowded almost all the time. But there are a couple of tricks. The main one is to book your tickets to the main attractions ahead of time. The lines at the Uffizi are crazy-long, but if you book your ticket online you can jump the line and get right in at your appointed time. Better yet, book first thing in the morning. That's when I went and I had Venus on the Half Shell (Botticelli's The Birth of Venus) and Leonardo's Adoration of the Magi practically to myself.

A copy of Michelangelo's David outside the Uffizi, Florence, September, 2001

 Another must see in Florence is the Accademia. The statue of David outside the Uffizi is actually a copy. The original has been housed at the Accademia since 1873. Getting up close to Michelangelo's masterpiece is a captivating experience. Also on display are several unfinished works by Michelangelo, the so-called "prisoners." They're called prisoners because it is thought that the master sculptor released his works from the bounds of the marble slabs that he worked. But, again, it's very crowded. The good news is you can also easily buy tickets online to avoid the lines.

Duomo, Florence, September, 2001

Duomo, Florence, September, 2001

  Perhaps the most popular, and therefore the most crowded, attraction is the Duomo, or cathedral. Trust me, I've seen an awful lot of duomos in my day, and Florence's might be the most spectacular. It's not as big as the church at St. Peter's in Rome, but the facade, with its red, green and white marble is unlike anything else in the world. 

Interesting note: this facade is not the original Renaissance facade. In fact, it wasn't completed until the late 1800s.

Duomo, Florence, September, 2001

 If you want a spectacular view of Florence, you can climb to the top of the Duomo (463 steps!) via the original, narrow staircases used by workmen to construct the church. In this case, it's not just a good idea to reserve in advance, it's a requirement.

Duomo, Florence, September, 2001

Insider tip: You don't need to climb all those steps. For an equally fantastic view of Florence, take a local bus to the suburb of Fiesole. It's on a hill overlooking the city. There's also some Roman and pre-Roman ruins in Fiesole and its pretty well undiscovered by the tourist hoards below.

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Ottrano Boboli Garden, Florence, September, 2001

 Another way to escape the crowds in Florence is to go a park. My favorite is the Ottrano Boboli Garden. Right behind a major tourist attraction (the Pitti Palace), the Boboli Garden doesn't seem to attract the same level of interest from the tourists. The sculptures from the 16th, 17th and 18th century are interesting, but I found the park setting to be calming.

To get to the Boboli Garden you'll need to cross the Arno River. The Ponto Vecchio is a lovely medieval bridge which makes for a nice walk to the other side, you'll just have to dodge the souvenir hawkers.

Once on the Oltrarno (the other side of the Arno), you'll experience what I think is the authentic Florence. Though locals are complaining that this area has begun the inevitable gentrification, and perhaps lost some of its charm, it is still the place to go to see real Florentines at work. Artisans work with leather, create mosaics and make mesmerizing pieces of marbled paper. This is a great place to get gifts and mementos, away from the chain stores and international designers. Just be sure that the shop you visit has a real artist doing the work, some shops import their offerings.  
Where to go instead: Bologna

Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca, Bologna, Italy, September, 2001

If you decide to blow off Florence (it's you life, I'm not going to tell you what to do, but, Michelangelo), and you still crave an Italian city, I'd suggest Bologna. About 90 minutes north of Florence, you can easily reach Bologna by car or train.

Bologna doesn't have the blockbuster sights of Florence, but the food. The food! After all, wasn't the food one of the main reasons you came to Italy? 

Bolognese sauce, called ragu, was invented here. All forms of pork, like prosciutto, salumi, and mortadella are everywhere. The slow food movement of eating local and cooking traditionally is very strong here as well. Vegetarians, while considered exotic by some in Bologna, will also feel welcome.

And, if you must see a church, check out the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca, perched on a hill overlooking the city. While not nearly as fancy as Florence's duomo, I think the way the light and shadows play off the red stones of the church are striking.

Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca, Bologna, Italy, September, 2001

Best of all, Bologna is a university town. The University of Bologna was founded in 1088 and is the oldest continuously operating university. That means there are lots of students in Bologna which makes for a vibrant atmosphere. 

One final recommendation for Bologna. The Museo Civico Medievale has some very nice displays from the Middle Ages, but the highlight for me was the carved stone caskets of university professors from the 14th and 15th centuries. Rather than being reverent towards the teachers, the carvings depict students daydreaming and dozing off in class!

 Where to go instead: Ferrara

A couple taking wedding pictures, Ferrara, Italy, September, 2001

Without a doubt, Ferrara is one of my favorite towns in Italy. A couple hours from Florence in Emilia-Romagna, Ferrara is practically undiscovered by American tourists.

Ferrara has plenty of sights to see, a castle, a great Gothic church, original Renaissance-era city walls, and even a surviving synagogue. 

Ferrara, Italy, September, 2001

But, the best part of Ferrara is its authenticity. Without blockbuster sights, you have Italians enjoying life in a truly relaxed manner. We spent quite a bit of time sitting in parks and piazzas, people watching and munching coppia ferrarese, a kind of sourdough bread twisted into an "X" shape that is unique to the city.

Bicycle passeggiata, Ferrara, September, 2001

Ferrara has the most unusual passeggiata in all of Italy. Everywhere else, the residents of the town promenade along the city streets before dinner, making the scene and catching up with friends and neighbors. In Ferrara, few people stroll. Most ride their bikes. It's quite a spectacle to see everyone pedal a few meters, then, maybe stop and chat, and then pedal off. I must say, I felt a little out of place without my trusty Schwinn.

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