It's up for discussion in Lecce, Italy

Pedestrians keeping out of the rain,Piazza Sant'Oronzo, Lecce, Italy

One of the best things to do when traveling in Italy is to sit and watch. Pick a spot. You can choose a cafe and sit with your espresso. Or loiter by a fountain in a piazza. Or plop yourself on a bench in a park. Pretty much anywhere you go, there will be people. And they'll be discussing something. And that discussion will likely be loud and animated.

Kids sitting next to Roman ruins at Piazza Sant'Oronzo, Lecce, Italy

Karen and I call this phenomenon "up for discussion." What we mean is that any matter, no matter how trivial, is suitable for a verbal volley. The weather, of course, is a good topic. So is local gossip. But I find the most lively conversations are centered upon grievances, slights, and miscarriages of justice.

Nowhere is this more evident than Piazza Sant'Oronzo in Lecce, Italy. The square, dedicated to the first bishop of Lecce, Saint Orontius of Lecce. There's a massive column in the center of the piazza with a statue of the saint on top. Outlining the massive piazza are covered walkways, cafes, and the blight of the square, a McDonald's.

This picture seems to show Saint Orontius gathering clouds. Piazza Sant'Oronzo, Lecce, Italy

We spent hours at a time in Piazza Sant'Oronzo, sipping espresso and watching the world go by. Once, we were approached by nuns who spoke no English (at the time we spoke almost no Italian) and tried to give us pamphlet about Jesus. The only problem was that they couldn't figure out what language we spoke, even at one point thinking that we were speaking Chinese. I wish I got a picture of them.

A man getting ready to sell umbrellas, Piazza Sant'Oronzo, Lecce, Italy

The best example of being "up for discussion" was when a gentleman tried to dispute a parking ticket being written by a police officer. The man's car was obviously in violation, parked sideways and blocking a pedestrian way in a place where no parking signs were visible.

Little did this cop know that he'd be spending the next hour of his life arguing about a parking ticket, Piazza Sant'Oronzo, Lecce, Italy

None of that mattered. He didn't want a ticket and he was going to make his point heard. He pleaded with the officer and when when that didn't work he became outraged and enlisted bystanders into the fracus.

A young man keeping his distance from the brewhaha, Piazza Sant'Oronzo, Lecce, Italy

To my amazement, the cop stood there and took it all in, remaining calm and explaining his position to the man. I kept saying to Karen "It's only a matter of time before he ends up handcuffed in the back of the squad car." But, he didn't. A crowd gathered, the man made his case to the court of public opinion. Some passersby obviously agreed with him and let the cop know it, others sided with the constable.

A slightly less menacing picture of Saint Orontius, Piazza Sant'Oronzo, Lecce, Italy

In the end, none of the aggrieved man's gesticulating did him any good. After almost an hour and several attempts by the officer, the man finally accepted the ticket and drove off.

I still wonder if the man thought his public display would have any effect on the cop or if he just felt that he needed to put on a show to save face. Either way, we were entertained.

Another entrepreneur selling umbrellas, Piazza Sant'Oronzo, Lecce, Italy

If you go: There are nonstop flights to Lecce from Rome and Milan, but you have to connect if you fly from most other major cities.  There are lots of great B&Bs in the old town, but remember, no cars are allowed. Park outside the city gates. Spring and fall are the best times to visit; summer is unbearably hot. Bring rainboots or buy some if there is rain in the forecast. Lecce, built on limestone, has poor drainage and the streets can flood. 
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