Modica, Sicily

Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, Modica, Sicily, 2016

There are lots of places where chocolate makers are revered; Belgium, Switzerland and France immediately come to mind.  But, Sicily has one of the most wonderful cacao-centric towns in the world. 

A train ride of less than two hours takes you from Siracusa on the coast of Sicly to the town of Modica.  When you get there, you'll see that chocolate is everywhere.  Souvenir and trinket shops sell bars of the famous chocolate as do take out restaurants and convenience stores.  But, there's no reason to get your sweet treats there when you can visit the places where the delicacy is made.

Your first stop must be Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, the oldest chocolate shop in Modica, and operated by the same family since 1880.   The importance of the Bonajuto family to Modica cannot be overstated.  Their chocolate lab and retail store set the stage for all the other shops that dot the city now.  

Just off Corso Umberto I is their shop and chocolate making kitchen.  You'll be shocked how tiny the space is, since this is the most famous chocolate shop in Italy.  Squeeze in and make your way to the samples.  In small ceramic dishes are over a dozen kinds of Bonajuto chocolate.

This is probably a good time to mention that chocolate from Modica is radically different from the chocolate you are used to.  American chocolate, Swiss chocolate, Belgian chocolate, most of the chocolate we consume is smooth and creamy in texture.  Not Modica chocolate.  It is processed used a cold-pressed method by which the sugar crystals do not melt and the chocolate has a rough texture.  If you've ever had Mexican chocolate, the chocolate makers in Modica use a similar method of production.  To my taste buds, this method allows the final product to retain more of true essence of the cacao bean.

But, don't stop with your visit to Bonajuto.  There are loads of other chocolate shops in Modica.  And each chocolate maker has their own spin on the confection.  Sample away and buy a bar or two at each shop.  They're cheap and they make wonderful gifts for your family and friends.

Church of San Pietro, Modica, Sicily, 2016

Church of San Pietro, Modica, Sicily, 2016

Practically across the street from Antica Dolceria Bonajuto is the Church of San Pietro.  Sculptures are placed on the landing of each set of stairs.

Cathedral of San Giorgio, Modica, Sicily, 2016

View of Modica from the doorway of the Cathedral of San Giorgio, 2016

Modica, Sicily, 2016

They refer of Modica as "Upper Modica" (Modica Alta) and "Lower Modica" (Modica Bassa) for good reason.  Upper Modica is high above Lower Modica.  Very high above.  About 300 steps worth just to get to the Cathedral of San Giorgio.

And there's a reason that people in Modica only refer to the distance down from Upper Modica.  That's because few people regularly climb from Lower Modica to Upper Modica.  Except us.  Even with plenty of options to get to Upper Modica (like the cute train that ferries people up and down), we decided to work off the all sugar bombs we had consumed earlier.  Luckily, there are plenty of places to stop for a rest along the way.

All sweaty and breathing heavily, we make it to the top and are given our reward.  A spectacular view of Lower Modica.  The church itself is very nice as well, but if Sicilian Baroque isn't your jam (I happen to adore it), then you can skip going inside, even though there are several Renaissance paintings and a massive organ.  

There's also a large bell tower at the church.  Another 250 steps up.  I didn't ask if you can climb it.  I've done my work.

On your way out of Modica, you can visit the chocolate museum and, if you're heading back to Siracusa, stop off at the town of Noto and visit Cafe Sicilia for a gelato, they've been serving it since the 1800's, and besides, you already blew your diet in Modica.

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