Rovinj, Croatia

Rovinj, Croatia

Croatia has steadily increased its profile as a travel destination over the last several years. Part of this is due to the tremendous number of cruise ships that are docking at Dubrovnik. But, for my money, the real jewel in Croatia's Adriatic crown is Rovinj.

Decorated doorway in Rovinj, Croatia

We visited Rovinj as part of our trip to Istria, a trip that inspired me to write my novel Truffle Hunt. A good portion of that book takes places in the hill towns of inland Istria, so-called Green Istria for it's gentle slopes and fertile soil.

Many alleyways in Rovinj lead directly to the water

Rovinj is on the coast, part of Blue Istria, named for it's gorgeous coastline and water. Just outside of Rovinj are some larger resorts, but the town itself still retains its Old World charm.

Working on a boat in Rovinj, Croatia

Fishermen still go out everyday and bring their catch back to the local restaurants. There's dry docks nearby where you can watch these same men work on their boats between excursions. 

Getting ready to take his girlfriend's dog for a walk

The cafe culture is also strong in Rovinj. We were there during the off-season when the vast majority of the outdoor seats were left unoccupied. So, we were able to focus on the remaining locals. One day, I became fascinated with a Croatian couple. The stylish woman (she could have easily looked at home in Rome or Milan) was meeting a friend for coffee. She sat down and called her boyfriend on her cell. He showed up, straight from a work out, and she convinced and cajoled him into taking he little, yappy dog for a walk. I don't know why, but I found the whole scene hilarious.

Dried chilis at the farmers market

After your espresso, make your way to the outdoor market. Vendors sell everything from dried chilis to honey to truffles. Istria is truffle country, after all.

Another view of Rovinj and the famous Church of St. Euphemia

Rovinj is a strategic point on the Adriatic Sea. The Church of St. Euphemia sits atop a hill in Rovinj, visible from just about everywhere in town. To get a great view of the surrounding area, it's a fairly easy climb to reach the church. The day we were there, the church wasn't open, but I hears that it is possible to climb the belltower, which I'm sure has a spectacular view.

Answering the age-old question, do Kiwi grow in Istria?

If you go: I recommend getting a car if you travel to Istria. Train and bus transportation is spotty. If you don't get a car, there are buses that go to the city. There are lots B&Bs in the old town and in the nearby new town. There's also some fantastic restaurants, one of which became a restaurant I described in Truffle Hunt (although I relocated it to Buzet in interior Istria). 

Narrow streets of Rovinj, Croatia

Interesting fact: Rovinj, like the rest of Isria was part of Italy until WWII. 100 years ago, ninety percent of Rovinj residents spoke Italian and claimed Italian ancestory. While 1 in 6 people in Rovinj speak Italian today, most Italians fled Istria after the war and many became refugees in the border town of Trieste.  

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