Liverpool, England

John Lennon statue, Matthew Street, Liverpool

The first time I visited Liverpool was 1994. I stayed for a couple days to see the Beatles' sites and enjoyed it, but was struck at how run-down and depressing the city was.

The famous barbershop at Penny Lane, Liverpool

But, the people were friendly. At the time, the movie "Backbeat" had just been released. It was about the Beatles' early days in Hamburg before Beatlemania. When I saw the film in Liverpool, it was more like watching home movies with your family rather than going to the movies. I was sure that everyone sitting there that evening was friends with or related to John, Paul, George, or Ringo, such was the familiarity they seemed to have with the characters onscreen. 

The shelter in the middle of the roundabout. Had to take the photo from the bus, as we couldn't stop due to traffic.

Flash forward and Karen and I are in Lyon. We'd been in France for a couple of weeks and decided to ditch our itinerary and go the U.K. We were going to spend some time in Scotland, but Karen also wanted to see Liverpool since she had never been. We took the train to Liverpool (more about the U.K. rail system in a future blog post) and did a whirlwind of the Beatles' sites.

Cemetery that Paul walked through to get to John's house. Eleanor Rigby is buried here.

The Magical Mystery Tour is only about $25 and departs for a two hour tour of many of the Beatle spots in the city like Strawberry Field, Penny Lane and each of the Fab Four's homes where they grew up. 

Gate at Strawberry Field, where John played as a child.

What struck me was how Albert Dock, where the tour originates and ends, has changed in the 20+ years since I visited. Albert Dock used to be a very rundown and scary place. Now, it's gone upscale and even features a new museum, The Beatles Story, which is a must-visit. 

Plaque at the historic Paul McCartney childhood home

But, Albert Dock also plays a pivotal role in the history of rock music. Liverpool was and is a port city. In fact, John's father was a merchant seaman. Sailors and merchants were constantly docking at Liverpool, often bringing hard to find rock, jazz, and R&B records with them. This was the pipeline that fueled John and Paul's love for American music, especially Chuck Berry and Little Richard.

Block where Ringo grew up. The bus didn't stop so I took a photo from the window. Ringo gets no respect!

All of the childhood homes of the Beatles are still standing, and John and Paul's are especially busy tourist attractions. George's house is in a more modest neighborhood and the block where Ringo lived as a child is all boarded up, although you can see the pub where Ringo's mother worked when he was young  (this building is the setting for the cover of Ringo's "Sentimental Journey" LP). There are rumblings around Liverpool that Ringo's home and the others nearby will be saved from demolition and rehabbed, which they should be, this is a historic landmark!

The Empress, the pub where Ringo's mother worked. This building can be seen on the cover of his LP "Sentimental Journey"

The center of the Beatles' universe was the area around Matthew Street and the Cavern Club. The Beatles played the Cavern almost 300 times in early 60's, and it is a legendary pilgrimage spot for Beatlemaniacs.

The famous Cavern Club

If you go to Liverpool, you will undoubtedly end up here. Matthew Street is filled with t-shirt shops and faux museums filled with memorabilia of sometimes poor quality and dubious provenance. But, as I've said before, getting a few tacky trinkets is a cheap and fun way to remember your trip.

Statue of John atop the Hard Day's Night Hotel, Liverpool

What struck me was how the place had changed since 1994. Today, it's almost like Disneyland for Beatle fans. Overpriced food and theme hotels are the norm, but I suppose if you're coming for the Fab Four, you should go all-in!

Statue of Paul atop the Hard Day's Night Hotel, Liverpool

Don't misunderstand, I'm not being critical. I truly enjoyed my recent trip to Liverpool, and if you love the Beatles like I do, you should try to make the trip someday. Just, buyer beware.

Statue of George

Statue of Ringo

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